2 Year Anniversary of My First Ever Surf

For Manu

Today is the 2 year anniversary of my first surf lesson with you and you starting your first job as a surf instructor!  I met you on my second day. I didn’t really enjoy day one very much.  My first ever lesson was on a reef and it wasn’t easy.  (it’s now my favourite spot but, we always seem to go on day 5 when I can’t paddle anymore) .  I was nervous, I struggled and I was so unfit and weak and I was really big back then remember. Anyway then  I got one awesome long, long ride on my belly all the way  to the beach and that was it, despite my shit day, that was enough, I didn’t stop smiling for the next 24 hours!

The next day I got put with you, before we set off the surfs school boss explained I’d be just with you and one other guy as you were new and they were seeing how you got along. This day was different, I still struggled but, something changed.   Remember when we sat on the beach together at the top of Playa Blanca, we didn’t really know each other then. It was your first week on the job and you were so happy. We were looking down at the waves rolling in and you said you should never waste a wave Clare they have taken 1000’s of years to get here.  It made me think about time I had wasted because of bad choices I’d been making the last 15 years, my life style, weight, health and the effect that had on my life. On time I’d wasted saying I can’t without even trying, opportunities I’d wasted because I wasn’t brave enough and at that moment I decided I wasn’t going to waste another moment.  I think I turned to you and said I’m going to change Manu, as soon as I get home I’m getting healthy, changing my ways so I can learn to surf properly. We made a pact and this pact is what carried me so far forward to where I find myself now.

From that first day your patience, respect and determination to help this daft old girl has been amazing! I have no idea over the last 2 years how many waves you have watched me go for, how many times you saw me nearly stand, how many times you saw my frustration, sometimes I’d secretly cry in the water because I was trying so hard and getting nowhere.  No matter how badly I did you always continued to smile your killer smile and tell me I can do it !! I bet there were lots of times you thought that you didn’t have the energy to listen to me talk rubbish and to smile and be nice. A good teacher always says the right thing at the right time and you did this a lot! You also left me alone when I needed that too but, ultimately you totally believed that eventually I would do it and you were right.

The best thing I have learnt from surfing is that great things come after hard work and commitment. It’s now 2 years on and my life is almost unrecognisable. I’ve worked hard, been committed and great things have happened.

I haven’t been to Fuerte for over six months now. I needed to go off on my own and away from the security and safety of you and the Homegrown team. I think you also needed a break from me too. I’m quiet annoying haha!

So, today I’ve been surfing  in Morocco with Paul. After 2 years of surfing I still have shit days. Today I jumped on a weaver fish and screamed for about 20 minutes in pain! Haha, it’s always me!  I thought  about that moment on Playa Blanca 2 years ago when a new teacher and a fat, unhealthy, lazy girl made a pact on a beach and started a chain of events they could never have predicted.  Thank you.

Clare  x

Ps.  if you go to Mojito Beach bar and see Barbara I have paid for some drinks for you to collect anytime. Of, course it must be some Mojitos!


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